Prague is also a city of cafés with an old-fashioned charm, where I like to read the paper. In this article, you’ll discover my top 5 addresses for historic cafés in Prague. Come and sit with me on Prague’s most comfortable benches! Depending on my mood, I’ll sit in the hubbub and smoke of Café Louvre or in the calm and darkness of Kavárna Lucerna…
My top five historic cafés in Prague
I like to think I’m sitting in the same places as Kafka or Čapek, the writer to whom we owe the word “robot” . Wooden decor, attentive service, moderate prices… Places to take a break during your visit to Prague
Café Louvre, my favorite!
On the second floor of a building on the wide Rue Národní (number 22, the building also houses the Reduta jazz club and the Rock Café), you can take a trip back in time… As soon as you enter, you’ll be greeted on your right by a slightly anachronistic checkroom and, on the wall, a huge map of Prague dotted with diodes and buttons to press, revealing the city’s old telephone codes.
Café Louvre has been my favorite café for over ten years!
Since 1902 (although interrupted during the communist era, 1948-1992), people have been coming to show off their gold, red and cream decor, but also to enjoy an excellent hot chocolate (don’t hesitate!), to eat good food at lower prices at lunchtime (daily specials at less than 7-8 eur in a superb setting – who could beat that?) or to play a game of billiards in the back room on winter evenings. Einstein, during his stay in Prague as a teacher between 1910 and 1912 (souvenirs bearing his likeness are sold at the entrance, and his bronze portrait can also be found at no. 17 Old Town Square, next to the Einstein Bistrot), was a frequent visitor. So did Kafka. And I go there regularly with the kids (they’ll be offered pretty little crayons free of charge…)
Café Louvre
Národní 22
Daily 8am-11.30pm (9am weekends)
Kavárna Lucerna, a magnificent café
Café Lucerna is located in the building and passageway of the same name (the complex was built by the family of former president Václav Havel), not far from Wenceslas Square. Lucerna means “lantern “ in Czech, and there’s one adorning each entrance to the passageway: at 61 Vodičkova Street and 36 Štěpánská Street. To get to this Art Deco café, you’ll have to climb the few steps of the wide staircase that begins beneath David Černý’s horse.
A very pretty bar topped with beautiful chandeliers and attentive service.
Live music at weekends. If you want to avoid the gloom (even if the chandeliers are superb), like me, prefer the tables near the wide windows overlooking the passage. There’s even a small table outside, above the monumental staircase (accessed via the café) for smokers. You can then wait for a movie(kino) watching the passers-by below. An incredible room with balconies awaits you at the far left (tickets on sale at the box office under the dome). This is where the film La Môme, starring Marion Cotillard as Edith Piaf, was shot (the Czech Republic, dubbed the “Hollywood of the East”, is a mecca for film production with the Barrandov studios. In fact, the name Barrandov appears in full in the passageway, alongside Lucerna).
Kaverna Lucerna
Vodičkova 36
Daily 10am-0am
Slavia, one of Prague’s most famous cafés
This has undoubtedly been one of Prague’s most famous cafés since 1863. Frequented by the avant-garde at the beginning of the 20th century, then by dissidents under Communism (including Che Guevara, who stayed in Prague illegally between Africa and Bolivia), it now brings together old ladies, tourists and businessmen in a superb Art Deco setting. Located just across from the National Theater (at number 2 Smetanovo nábřeží), it’s the perfect place to grab a bite to eat before or after a show.
Slavia has been one of Prague’s most famous cafés since 1863.
Personally, I love sitting at the far left, on the corner of Národní Street and the quay, to watch the streetcars outside. Lunch menu with soup and main course for less than 5 euros!
Slavia
Smetanovo nábřeží 2
Daily 8am-0am (9am weekends)
Le Grand Café Orient, a cubist gem
Everything here is Cubist, right down to the coat rack! This superb café (ranked among the 7 most beautiful cafés in Europe by Focus magazine) is located on the second floor of the Black Madonna House (Ovocný trh 19), a building built by architect Josef Gočár in 1911-1912 (the latter also designed the coat racks, for example, sold in the ground-floor boutique). Why the Black Madonna? Quite simply because of the statue which, imprisoned in its cage, adorns the right-hand corner of the façade. Once inside, admire the staircase leading up to the café, then notice the furniture and crockery… Under Communism, the place was abandoned and old black-and-white photos were used to make all the furniture look exactly the same. We’re not even sure of the color of the drapes, since between 1948 and 1989 there were no eyewitnesses to guarantee that it was green and white.
Nothing is left to chance: this is the temple of cubism!
And if you feel like it, take a stroll to the Kubista boutique on the first floor, where you’re sure to find a pretty little cubist object to take home as a souvenir, like the famous cubist sugar bowl. If in winter, the green and white hangings bring a little cheerfulness, in fine weather, prefer a table on the balcony to enjoy your coffee! And recently, on the first floor, you’ll even find a nice restaurant (“cubist” of course) with pretty cakes (including one in the shape of a coronavirus!)
Grand café orient
Ovocný trh 19
Daily 9am-10pm (10am weekends)
La Kavárna Obecní Dům, Art Nouveau café
On the first floor of the Municipal House, under grandiose chandeliers and while ogling the pastry cart, let yourself contemplate the opulent ornamentation of this illustrious café.
Art Nouveau in all its splendor!
Even if the terrace is open, it would be a shame to miss out on the interior. And if you want to avoid mass tourism, it’s best to visit early in the morning or late in the day, before or after strolling through the imposing building, symbol of the National Revival (1912). Great American bar in the basement.
Kavarna Obecni dum
Náměstí Republiky 5
Daily 7.30 a.m.-11 p.m
And if you have the time, you should know that the Café Savoy and especially the Café Impérial, where I recommend you stay if you book here, are also very nice establishments! In fact, they’re even more chic than the above.