In this article, discover this pastry that has become emblematic of Prague. At the end of the page, you'll find my tips for eating it warm on the go (and even making it yourself).
Some locals take offense (see video here), but I think there's more to it than that! For at least the last 15 years, every street corner in Prague's Old Town, right up to the Castle (tickets here), has been home to the famous spit-roasted cylindrical cake, trdelník (a word almost unpronounceable by foreigners, or chimney cake for the Anglo-Saxons).
There's no escaping it! And here's the rub: this pastry is not Czech, but Hungarian or Slovakian (see below).
But never mind! On the blog, I also praise Prague's high-quality Italian and Vietnamese cuisine! Recently, a visitor almost got angry when I advised him to eat Vietnamese (communist Czechoslovakia armed the Vietcong, North Vietnam in the 70s and the Vietnamese community has been very present in Prague for 50 years and the cuisine just as much):
-"I'm not in Prague to eat Vietnamese!" he retorted coldly.
-"And do you eat goulash?" I replied
-"Ah yes!" he exclaimed
-"Well, it's not Czech, it's Hungarian!" I concluded.
Well, as you can see, everything is relative, and goulash is just as Hungarian as trdelník! Rest assured, Czechs also enjoy eating this pastry, which has become a staple at Christmas markets. My children are always begging me to buy them some!
What is trdelník? A little history
Trdelník is a sweet pastry made from leavened dough. The dough is rolled out in sixty-centimeter strips on a fairly large beechwood cylinder (nowadays sometimes made of metal) called a trdlo. Hence the characteristic hollow, chimney-shaped form. The cylinder of coils is heated by charcoal. During baking, the spit is turned so that the pastry is harmoniously browned. The cake is then carefully removed from the cylinder so as not to break its shape. It is often served sprinkled with sugar, crushed hazelnuts and cinnamon, but the modern version can also be filled with a variety of fillings (strawberries and whipped cream, ice cream, chocolate, etc.)
Good to know: if it's not plain, you'll often get it all over your fingers! Make sure you have enough paper napkins!
Trdelník originally comes from Transylvania, in present-day Romania. Today, it's most commonly found in Hungary, under the name kürtőskalács. It is also frequently found in Slovakia (where the Hungarian minority introduced it) under the name Skalický trdelník, which benefits from a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). The pastry is now exported, with franchises in Spain, the United States and Dubai…
History of trdelník in the Czech Republic
The word trdelník appears in Czech literature as early as the beginning of the 19th century, but it seems that the pastry appeared much earlier. It first appeared in the Beskydy mountains with Romanian immigrants around the 17th century. It was then prepared only for festive occasions. Once the meat was roasted on a spit, the glowing embers were used to cook the roll. But it wasn't until the beginning of the 21st century that its popularity soared, with stands offering it at various festivities, fairs and festivals, as well as in many tourist areas. After 2015, a version of trdelník filled with ice cream began to appear.
Where to buy (or even make!) trdelník
Two things to mention first!
- Prefer trdelník cooked over coals – it's much better!
- You may want to refrain from buying them with fillings, as the ice cream they put inside is often of poor quality. On the other hand, the Nutella or chocolate version is not bad…
Let's move on to two good addresses on either side of the Vltava river (because not all addresses are equal, far from it, and there are many tourist traps).
- Right bank: Trdelník & Coffee U Starého Hřbitova 2 (in the Jewish quarter that you have to visit! Tickets here).
- Left bank: Café U Kajetána Nerudova 17 (the street you need to take to climb to the Castle)
New and unusual! A workshop where you can make your own trdelník before enjoying it
There's already a glass-blowing workshop in Prague, and now there's another for making your own trdelník cake!
A gourmet activity that's sure to please the kids!
Book here!
And if you'd rather discover 100% Czech snacks and treats, take a look at this fun quiz!